Published in The Dallas Morning News: 03.03.00 
by Dotty Griffith

QUESTION: When opening chef James Neel abruptly left Al Biernat's high-profile restaurant, we had to wonder: Could the talented, but young, Mr. Neel and wife Lisa make a go of it at Tramontana? They took over the small restaurant last fall in a matter of days, without so much as a name change.

ANSWER: An unqualified yes!

MOVING ON: Mr. Neel's culinary vision had been obscured by steakhouse parameters. While his imaginative dishes drew notice at Biernat's, the kitchen became ever more focused on big steaks and lobsters. Determined to cook his own way, Mr. Neel jumped into the Preston Center space when it became available in September. Ownership changes since Tramontana opened in 1995 had meant a slip in quality. With Mr. Neel's purchase, the slow slide has been halted – in fact, there's been a steep reversal.

WIND WARNINGS: Named after the tramontana winds blowing off the Mediterranean Sea through the mountains between Spain and France, the 5-year-old restaurant looks little changed. Murals inspired by Toulouse-Lautrec posters still dominate the walls in the front dining room. Other wall motifs give the bistro an Old World feel. While the name is specific, the food isn't. Mr. Neel's cuisine is best described as New American with Italian and French influences. And his presence in the dining room, as well as in the kitchen, makes this the kind of chef-owned restaurant many customers dream of.

AT YOUR SERVICE: Depending on how busy things are, Mr. Neel may take orders, refresh water glasses or disappear into the kitchen to prepare entrees. Mrs. Neel is often in the front of the house, as well, adding another personal element to the accommodating, attentive and intelligent service.

DISHING: Some of the dishes for which he became known – including osso buco, pan-roasted sea bass and potato-crusted calamari – are on Mr. Neel's Tramontana menu. But he's also created others that are exceptional, both for flavor and for value. There are few places in Dallas that deliver as much quality for as little, pricewise.

LIGHT LUNCHING: Arugula salad with wild mushroom "soufflé" (creamy like quiche and crustless like a frittata), garnished with slices of smoked salmon and drizzles of basil creme fraiche is substantial enough for a light lunch. The salad has multiple flavors at play for a bargain $7.95. You can get a big, juicy cheeseburger with bacon for $6.95. Also available: plenty of other salads, several pastas, sandwiches and some downsized dinner entrees.

GETTING DOWN: The evening menu is where Mr. Neel really shows his stuff. Some of our favorites: an appetizer of two big tempura shrimp with arugula and pineapple salsa ($8.95); salad of grilled pears with walnuts, bacon and Roquefort cheese in a port-wine vinaigrette ($5.95); entree snapper with macadamia nuts and mango-papaya relish ($15.95).

SPECIALS: Don't disregard them. Mr. Neel offers a weekly prix fixe menu for $24.95 ($35.95 with two glasses of selected wines). Slices of medium-rare roasted duck breast spread over wild-rice pilaf with a black currant liqueur glaze were subtle, earthy; sweet tones were well- balanced. The first course, brie baked in pastry and garnished with caramelized apples, reminded us why this is a classic.

A NOTE ON WINE: Although Kendall Jackson reserve chardonnay was a decent match for the brie, Blackstone merlot didn't measure up to the duck in quality or subtlety. Overall, the wine list is reasonably priced and thoughtfully selected.

FINAL ACT:  Sourdough chocolate cake (served molten-style with a warm, soft middle) is a favorite of regular customers. We particularly liked the delicate apple tartlet with house-made caramel sauce (just the right bitter hint of burnt sugar offsetting the sweetness) and a banana cream pie with a brown sugar-butter sauce.

ON THE MAP: Tramontana has already been discovered by the dining-out heavies of the Park Cities, Preston Hollow and North Dallas. Weekend reservations are a must. Reservations are recommended any time you want a dinner table at this casual spot where the regulars range widely in age – Gen-X'ers to retired Boomers – and in dress – golf shirts to coats and ties.