GUIDE LIVE February 2007 By KIM PIERCE / Special Contributor A TASTE OF EUROPE: After nearly eight years, chef-owner James Neel and the Tramontana team execute "bistro" so well that it appears effortless. This follows from the chef's low-key manner, his high-comfort cuisine, the room's urbane charm and a staff that treats diners like real guests. But forget pretentious. Tucked away on a Preston Center side street and named for a Mediterranean wind, Tramontana is its own little world. Heavy velvet drapes cloister diners from the outside. Inside, the Toulouse-Lautrec-inspired murals and calculated clutter make it feel like a European cafe. A SOUTHERN ACCENT: It can be said that the food is New American with French and Italian influences, but that misses how good it really is and the delightful way "local" sometimes turns into New Southern. Take the roasted banana soufflé with dark chocolate sauce and vanilla crème anglaise from a recent chef's daily market menu. What a soulful, Southern-style ending, echoing the sensibilities of banana-chocolate-cream pie. WINE AND DINE: One of the best ways to enjoy Tramontana's food and wine is with the chef's tasting menu: $50 for four courses, $69 with matching wines. The latter were inexpensive but well-chosen selections that nicely complemented their respective courses. On our visit, the four-course pairings started with a "classic menu" offering: a salad of baby greens, grilled pears, buttered walnuts, chunky bacon and Gorgonzola cheese with port vinaigrette, well-matched with Lurton Les Salices Pinot Noir. This was followed by the near al dente perfection of lobster risotto with pan-roasted Gulf red snapper, paired with Louis Latour Grande Ardèche Chardonnay. Meltingly tender brisket bourguignon with white-truffle penne mac and cheese, again invoking Southern comfort, took a turn with a hearty Chilean malbec from Viu Manent. The banana soufflé found good company in a glass of Fonseca Bin 27 Port. BREAK THE BANK: If there is a downside, it is the wine-list prices, which can be steep. But to the restaurant's credit, the selections are thoughtful and tipped in favor of the Old World, presumably to complement the food. A NEIGHBORHOOD FAVE: It's no wonder Tramontana has gained a loyal following among residents of nearby Park Cities and Preston Hollow, for whom it's almost a neighborhood hangout. But this ought to be among everyone's secret getaways, for when Dallas' techno-trend-surfing gets to be too much. Food – Service – Atmosphere – Published in The Dallas Morning News: 02.16.07

Texas Monthly February 2001 "Four Stars, Tramontana has the feel of French, but the cuisine draws on broader Mediterranean and American traditions. An example of the latter is the striped bass with red-wine essence, shaved fennel, and onion - a firm dish with mild game flavor given a fully flavored treatment. Chilled vichyssoise, however, was straight from the French culinary map."

The Source January 2001 A chef working the room is the sign of a restaurant paying close attention to his guests. James Neel, chef/owner of TRAMONTANA registers an immediate reaction when he places delicately garnished plates before napkin clad diners. Touted as one of Dallas' up-and-comers (Al Biernat hall-of-famer). Neel is pouring all his talent into his own place at Preston center. The lunch sensation vegetable risotto with grilled chicken is glazed with red bell pepper cream sauce and sprinkled with pine nuts. And on chilly winter eves, the red wine braised veal osso bucco settled on a bed of saffron couscous warms to the bone.

Dallas Business Journal and KRLD Restaurant Show "Best New Restaurant of 2000" Jim White TramontanaóPreston Center restaurant comes into its own after chef/owner James Neel takes over in Fall í99. Tantalizing goat cheese crusted chicken with cherry sauce and pancetta wrapped beef tenderloin with juniper berries and port are sure bets. 8220-B Westchester, (214) 368-4188.

Dallas Morning News- "Chef's Table" by Dotty Grifith James Neel, chef-owner at the New American restaurant, says dinners at his chef's table inside the kitchen are "my personal guest for the night." He prepares an eight to 10 course tasting menu - with matching wines if desired - in consultation with guest, and "the table is theirs for the evening. "Because they are in the kitchen, the chef can tell them what and how he's cooking. Some enthusiastic diners even help out. "I want it to be a night they'll never forget." Mr. Neel says.

The Zagat Survat - #25 Top 40 Food Ranking "A tiny, romantic hideaway", this North Dallas French bistro gets tons of accolades for its "superior" "inventive" cuisine from an often-changing menu; surveyors add that "super-nice" chef-owner James Neel is a "treasure" whose skills are "moving this storefront to the forefront." www.zagat.com

Dine.com Rating: 4.54 / 5.0 (214) 368-4188 Continental, French

AOL.com Anywhere Dining - Chef Neel shows his skills. Five Stars, This tiny, cozy space offers super-chef James Neel (formerly of Al Biernat's) a place for him to show what he can do. Crab cakes; he's a pro. Caesar salad; he's an award winner (American Institute of Wine & Food) in this town. When pears are in season, don't miss the pear, walnut, bacon and Roquefort salad. Neel does wonders with side dishes like lobster-whipped potatoes, risotto and more.